اهـلا وسهـلا بكم مع عـشاق ال PitBuLL

[uae_pitbull]

HE IS OFTEN REFERED TO AS THE NEXT BIG THING IN BULLY. AT ONLY 10 MONTHS OLD HE WILL BRING CORRECT BODY STRUCTURE, MUSCLE AND SUPER NICE HEAD TO THE BREEDING TABLE. I AM NOW PLANNING BREEDINGS FOR THIS AWESOME STUD TO APPROVED FEMALES. FANTASTIC PEDIGREE...CHECK IT

بــت بوول بلاك 10 شهوور بكامل الصحه والعافيه ونشيط جـدأ مع جدول البروتينات




LOTHYAN BODACIOUS BODI Sire
MARCIAL'S DUKE OF HAZARD Sire
GUERRA'S ELVIS Sire
AMBER-LITE'S CAPTAIN BUD
Dam
PATCHES SANCHEZ
Dam
MARCIAL'S RAGE OF ENVY Sire
WATSON'S WHITE DIABLO
Dam
WATSON'S BLUE DIAMOND
Dam
DURAN'S AMERICA Sire
DURAN'S BOOM BOOM MANCINI Sire
BINGLEY'S MONSTER "G"
Dam
GUERRA'S PRICILLA
Dam
ABLEPAWS DURAN'S SEQUOIA Sire
ABLEPAWS FELL INTO BLEACH
Dam
ELIOT WET DREAM
Dam
PR ULTIMATE BLUES' MISS THANG Sire
"PR" ROCKSTREAMS' HIGHLANDER Sire
CH PR RIO BRAVO NIX SAVAGE CAP'N DICK Sire
GR CH PR NOBLES EZ GOER
Dam
CH PR NIX BLUE JEAN BLUES
Dam
PR HOOVER'S BREEANN Sire
CH PR RIO BRAVO NIX SAVAGE CAP'N DICK
Dam
CH PR RIO BRAVO'S SASSY BOOTS
Dam
"PR" ROCKSTREAMS' TIGER LILLY Sire
PR R.E. TRUEBLUES GLORYBOY Sire
CH R.E. CALL HIM LIL MAN
Dam
R.E. TEQUILLA SUNRISE
Dam
PR R.E. LIL BLUE KOALA Sire
CLOVERHILL'S WATUMKA SPIRIT
Dam
GR CH R.E. SADEY'S PADDINGTON

[uae_pitbull]

وهنا انثى بت بوول جميله جدا صغيره مع الام والاب

[uae_pitbull]

هنا بت بوول ذكر اللون رصاصي جميل ايـضأ

[uae_pitbull]

وهنا بت بوول علي لون كلب الحراسه البوليسي او الجيرمن شبرد رهيب الكلب وغير متوفي في الامارات اطلاقأ

[uae_pitbull]

جدول ترتـيب من احد جداول الي استخدمها لكم خاص لمنتدى 2زوو

طبـعأ بلنجليزي الجدول

الجدول يتضمن من كلاب بت بوول الصغار والكـبار

بسم الله ونبدأ

Crate Training Your Puppy
During puppyhood, a dog must learn to feel secure in his environment. An insecure dog leads to problems with house training, a dog that cowers, digs, chews and barks needlessly. Adult dog behavior is shaped during the early stages of puppyhood. Many dogs are placed in shelters or end up on the streets as a result of poor training on the owner's part. Dogs need proper training and direction. Most problems with dogs can be prevented if proper direction is taken from the beginning. Invest a little of your time now and and it will result in a lifetime of enjoyment for you and your canine companion.

Dogs are pack animals by nature and prefer a dark, small, den-like atmosphere as opposed to a huge open room that we humans would enjoy.

Dog crates are simply a rectangular structure just big enough for the dog to lay down in. They should NOT be large enough for the dog to play in. The natural tendency to stay clean is basic instinct. The crate becomes the den that humans took away when we domesticated dogs thousands of years ago.

Crates are primarily used for house breaking puppies. But may also be used to train/re-train adult dogs as well. Crates are not cruel by any stretch of the imagination. It's like an indoor den for you companion.

Crates should NOT be used for long term confinement. More than 10 hours for any dog is too long to remain in a crate without being able to relieve themself. Once a schedule is set, dogs usually have a admirable ability to "hold it". This must be gradualy worked up to through proper training from puppy hood.

THE FIRST STEP

When you bring your new pupster home, you should already have his/her crate set up with newspapers or a soft rug or towel. If your new pupster is younger than 10 weeks when you bring him home I suggest placing an exercise pen around the crate. This will give him the advantage of not being shut up in the crate at an early stage for long periods of time. Puppies urinate immediately after waking up from a nap and defecate after every meal. This is EVERY time! Once they begin to mature, the length of time between urges "to go" become longer in length. (Usually around 10-14 weeks). At this stage they become ready to stay in their crates all day while you are at work and all night while you sleep. I will keep a toy or two in the crate but I don't keep food or water as this will create a huge mess. As soon as they eat and drink they will need "to go" and if you are not home to let them out you'll be real sorry and they will be real upset. It will also inadvertantly teach them "to go" in the crate.

Puppies learn quickly not to relieve themselves in their den/crate. I keep thick layers of newspapers in the crate for the first month or so. Depending on how young the puppy is, it will more than likely urinate in the crate because he just can't "hold it" as long as an older dog. If the puppy is fed and watered and taken outside before being crated you will have a much cleaner and happier puppy when you return home. Puppies grow very fast and usually within a month you can remove the papers from the crate and replace it with a soft rug or towel.

I usually have two crates per new puppy. One in the family room and one in my bedroom. Puppies should NOT be isolated just because they are in a crate. During the day when you can't watch every move the new puppy makes he can be in the crate in the family room. But at night he will want to be with you for a secure feeling. And when he awakes in the night and needs to go out you will hear him if he's in your bedroom.

When you sleep, your puppy should be in his crate with the door closed. He will wake you when the urge strikes. You need to take him out right then and there to further the crate training purpose. Your puppy will learn what you teach him. If you ignore the persistent crying to go out to relieve himself you will defeat the purpose of crating your puppy altogether. Puppies mature quickly and he will not have to get up in the middle of the night forever.

NEVER scold your pupster for soiling his crate. Shame on you for not getting him out when he asked!! Again, dogs are clean by nature and left to their own devices would leave the den to relieve themselves. Always, Always praise your puppy EVERY time he "goes" outside. IF he does soil the crate, just get the puppy outside to finish his business, give him LOTS of praise, clean the crate, put the puppy back in the crate and go back to sleep.

Once your puppy has matured and is past the house-breaking period you may start to leave him out for longer periods. But you will want to continue the crating when you are away or cannot watch everything your puppy is doing for a while longer. Teething can be dangerous as well as costly if the puppy is allowed to be loose all the time. My new puppies are crated until they are totally trustworthy and understand what is allowed and what is not. This might be 6 months or it might be 2 years. Each dog is an individual and requires individual training. Once I am SURE the dog is trustworthy then I start leaving them out when I am away for short periods at a time. As long as everything is in tact when I return the next time will be a little longer. Eventually your dog will be able to be loose in the house all the time if you so desire.
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جزء الـثاني
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You may not believe this but...

You should NEVER use the recall word ("COME", or whatever word you choose) to call your dog to discipline him, correct him, tell him what a bad dog he is, or for any negative reason. Bad deeds MUST be caught IN THE ACT in order to correct. If you still need your dog by you for a negative reason, give him a firm SIT command and go get him.
For example:
Imagine this, you see your dog "Major" outside digging up your newly planted daisies. You first quietly say "Major, Come here". Major, doesn't respond. You then yell "MAJOR - COME HERE!". Major still doesn't come, so you go over and grab him by the collar and yell "I told you to Come Here!" and give him a smack.

Major being a smart dog, makes a mental note "Come Here" means "You're in trouble and about to get punished".

Next time when he is outside, and you want him to come inside for dinner you go out and say to him "Come here", he responds by running away. "Dumb dog" you think and go and grab him and drag him inside so he'll eat his food. Then you say sternly "How come you don’t ever COME when I call you?!" Major makes another mental note (Hmmm: seems to me my memory of “COME HERE” is still accurate – don’t want to respond to that – after all, “COME HERE” means I am in BIG TROUBLE!)

Remember, dogs know ONLY “dog ********” when they come to live with us. WE must teach them our ********. In the above examples, Major did not learn OUR translation for the word “COME”. He learned “COME” meant “angry owner – I’m in trouble now. Better scram out of here!” We want Major to learn that “COME” means “Get your buns to me in the fastest way possible – NO EXCEPTIONS!” Major needs to understand that COME means GOOD stuff – ALWAYS!

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نبدأ بلجزء الــثالـث\
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Dog and Puppy Biting, Mouthing, Teething

Biting and mouthing is common in young puppies and dogs especially in play and while teething. It's up to you to teach your puppy or dog what is acceptable and what is not.
Biting dogs are generally loving, sweet, adorable, affectionate and wonderful 99% of the time. Only 1% of the time does something specific happen that makes the dog bite. This article will discuss the causes of biting and what you can do to prevent your dog from biting.

Inhibit Biting
First of all, dogs must learn to inhibit their bite before they are 4 months old. Normally, they would learn this from their mother, their littermates and other members of the pack. But, because we take them away from this environment before this learning is completed, we must take over the training.
Socialization Prevents Biting
By allowing your puppy to socialize with other puppies and socialized dogs they can pick up where they left off. Puppies need to roll, tumble and play with each other. When they play, they bite each other everywhere and anywhere. This is where they learn to inhibit their biting. This is where they learn to control themselves. If they are too rough or rambunctious, they will find out because of how the other dogs and puppies react and interact with them. This is something that happens naturally and it is something we cannot accomplish. It can only be learned from trial and error. There is nothing you can say or do to educate them in this realm. They must learn from their own experience.
Another major advantage of dog to dog socialization besides the fact that it will help your dog to grow up not being fearful of other dogs is that they can vent their energy in an acceptable manner. Puppies that have other puppies to play with do not need to treat you like littermates. So the amount of play biting on you and your family should dramatically decrease. Puppies that do not play with other puppies are generally much more hyperactive and destructive in the home as well.

Lack of Socialization Causes Biting
A major cause of biting is lack of socialization. Lack of socialization often results in fearful or aggressive behavior. The two major reactions a dog has to something it is afraid of are to avoid it or to act aggressive in an attempt to make it go away. This is the most common cause of children being bitten. Dogs that are not socialized with children often end up biting them. The optimum time to socialize is before the dog reaches 4 months. With large breed dogs, 4 months may be too late, simply because at this age the puppy may already be too large for most mothers of young children to feel comfortable around. For most owners, the larger the dog is, the more difficult it is to control, especially around children. If there is anything you do not want your dog to be afraid of or aggressive towards, you must begin to socialize your puppy with them before it is 4 months old.
Trust and Respect Inhibits Biting
There are many other reasons your dog will bite and you will have to take an active role in teaching them. However, before you can teach your dog anything, there are two prerequisites that are essential. They are trust and respect. If your dog doesn't trust you, there is no reason why he should respect you. If your dog does not respect you, your relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing each other around. If your dog does not trust and respect you, then when you attempt to teach your dog something, he will regard you as if he were thinking, "Who do you think you are to tell me what to do?"
Use of Reprimands and Biting
Never hit, kick or slap your dog. This is the quickest way to erode the dog's trust in you. Yes, he will still love you. Even abused dogs love their owners. A unique characteristic of dogs is their unconditional love. You don't have to do anything to acquire your dog's love. But you must do a lot to gain your dog's trust and respect. Another area where we destroy our dog's trust in us is when we scold or punish them for housesoiling mistakes and accidents. When housetraining your puppy, there is never an appropriate time to punish or reprimand. If you catch your dog in the act, just head for the towels and cleaner. You have no right to scold him, because if he is going in the wrong place, it is your fault, not his. If you find an accident after the fact, just clean it up.
Summary Tips on Biting
Just a few tips:
1. Reprimand alone will never stop biting.
2. If no respect exists, the biting will get worse. If you act like a littermate, the dog will treat you as one.
3. If trust is not there, the dog may eventually bite out of fear or lack or confidence.
4. Inconsistency sabotages training. If you let the dog bite some of the time, then biting will never be completely eliminated.
5. Don't forget follow up. The dog must understand that it is the biting that you don't like, not the dog itself. Make up afterwards, but on your terms, not the dog's.


House Training a Puppy

What To Expect During the House Training Process
Unless you can monitor your puppy 24 hours a day, don't expect the house training process to be completed until your puppy is at least 6 months old. It's normal for a young puppy to be a little 'input-output' machine. Since puppies are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! They also have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.
House Training When You Are Not Home
Confine your puppy to a small, 'puppy-proofed' room and paper the entire floor. Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little den. Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don't get upset; just accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.
Passive House Training or Paper Training
While your puppy is confined, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce the area that is papered. Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen ********. Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that area only. If he ever misses the paper, then you've reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering a larger area or even the entire room. Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can slowly and gradually move his papers to a ******** of your choice. Move the papers only an inch a day. If puppy misses the paper again, then you're moving too fast. Go back a few steps and start over. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the entire room. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick with this procedure, your puppy will be paper trained.
House Training When You Are Home
When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures described above. However, the more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker he will be house trained. Your objective is to take your puppy to his toilet area every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 45 minutes; just after a play session; just after eating or drinking; and just upon waking. When he does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and enthusiastically! Don't use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or accidents. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the house training process back drastically. Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room unless you know absolutely for sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out, don't let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is exploring your home. He can't get into trouble if you are attached to the other end of the leash. Every 30 minutes return your pup to his toilet area. As your puppy becomes more reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops, he can begin to spend more time outside his room with you in the rest of your home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise him, put him back in his room.
Active House Training
The most important thing you can do to make house training happen as quickly as possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place. The more times he is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore it's important that you spend as much time as possible with your pup and give him regular and frequent access to his toilet area.
Key to Successful House Training
Consistency and Patience. Never scold or punish your puppy for mistakes and accidents. The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his bladder and bowels. Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop. Don't forget, most puppies are not reliably house trained until they are at least 6 months old.

Obedience Training Your Dog or Puppy: How and Why

Obedience training is one of the best things you can do for your dog or puppy and yourself. Obedience training doesn't solve all behavior problems, but it is the foundation for solving just about any problem. Training opens up a line of communication between you and your dog. Effective communication is necessary to instruct your dog about what you want her to do. You can teach her anything from 'stay' (don't bolt out the door) to 'sit' (don't jump up on the visitors) to 'off' (don't chew the furniture).
Dogs are social animals and without proper training, they will behave like animals. They will soil your house, destroy your belongings, bark excessively, dig holes in your yard, fight other dogs and even bite you. Nearly all behavior problems are perfectly normal canine activities that occur at the wrong time or place or are directed at the wrong thing. For example, the dog will eliminate on the carpet instead of outside; the dog will bark all night long instead of just when a stranger is prowling around outside; or the dog will chew furniture instead of his own toys. The key to preventing or treating behavior problems is learning to teach the dog to redirect his natural behavior to outlets that are acceptable in the domestic setting.

Obedience training is also an easy way to establish the social hierarchy. When your dog obeys a simple request of 'come here, sit,' she is showing compliance and respect for you. It is NOT necessary to establish yourself as top dog or leader of the pack by using extreme measures such as the so-called alpha roll-over. You CAN teach your dog her subordinate role by teaching her to show submission to you in a paw raise (shake hands), roll over or hand lick (give a kiss). Most dogs love performing these tricks (obedience commands) for you which also pleasantly acknowledge that you are in charge.

Obedience training should be fun and rewarding for you and your dog. It can enrich your relationship and make living together more enjoyable. A well-trained dog is more confident and can more safely be allowed a greater amount of freedom than an untrained one. A trained dog will come when called.

Some people debate whether or not it is possible to train puppies, and others ask whether it is possible to teach an old dog new tricks. The answer to both questions is an un*****ocal YES. Whatever the age of your dog, the right time to begin training is right now! The most important time in your dog's life is right now. Your dog's behavior is constantly changing. A dog that is well-behaved today will not necessarily remain that way forever. New problems can always develop. Existing problems can always get worse.

Enroll in a local dog obedience training class to learn the basics. Then most teaching and training can and should be done in your home. It is best to begin training in an area that is familiar to your dog and with the least amount of distractions as possible. When you feel both you and your dog are skilled at several obedience commands, then take these commands to different areas. Introducing distractions may seem like starting all over again, but it's worth the effort. In reality, who cares if your dog will sit stay when no one is around? What you need is a dog who will sit-stay when company is at the door. Who cares if your dog heels beautifully in your own back yard? But you need to start there if you eventually want a dog who will heel beautifully when walking down Union Street. If you want your dog to be obedient in your car, guess where you have to practice? If you suddenly want your dog to down-stay while you are trying to move over 3 lanes to make an exit, you had better find time to practice those obedience commands in the car long before you need them. Don't drive and practice at the same time. Practice while the car is parked or while someone else is driving.

Keep the obedience training sessions short and sweet. It is dull and boring to schedule tedious and lengthy training sessions. Instead, integrate training into your daily routine. Make obedience training interesting and meaningful to your dog. If Puppy insists on following you from room to room while you are getting ready for the day, then insist he have something to do too. "Roll over" for your wake-up greeting. "Heel" from the bedroom to the bathroom. "Down-stay" while you're brushing your teeth. "Heel" from the bathroom to the kitchen. "Sit-stay" while grinding the coffee beans. "Go find the ball" while you get dressed. Now "go get the leash" so you can go for a walk. "Sit" when the door is opened, "sit" again when the door is closed. And so on. Be sure that obedience training infiltrates your dog's favorite activities and that your dog's favorite activities infiltrates training. Your dog's favorite activities should become training, so that training becomes the dog's favorite activity.

Rewards While Training
The single most important aspect of training is rewarding your dog for good behavior. The more times the dog is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore, it's essential that you set up situations repeatedly in order for your dog to get plenty of practice at doing the right thing. It's equally as important that you always praise your dog for good behavior instead of taking it for granted. It's easy to forget to praise good behavior because it goes unnoticed. But the very nature of misbehavior gets our attention. We don't notice when our dog is lying quietly, but excessive barking gets our attention. How many of us take notice and praise our dogs when they chew their own toys? But we all go berserk when we notice our favorite pair of shoes chewed up! Praise and reward are the most important part of maintaining good behavior and preventing problems from arising.
Reprimands While Training
Some dogs feel they are constantly bombarded with, 'NO, Stop that, get off, Bad dog!' They tend to get used to it and so the reprimands become meaningless and are ignored. If most of our interaction with the dog is praise for good behavior, then reprimands will take on much more meaning. Whenever you find the need to reprimand your dog, immediately show him what you want him to do, then reward him for getting it right. If you catch him chewing the furniture, tell him, 'Off!' Then immediately direct him to his own toys, enthusiastically entice him to chew on them and praise him for doing so.
If done correctly, your voice alone is sufficient for reprimand. A correct reprimand is short, sharp and immediate. Don't continue to nag the dog and never reprimand him unless you catch him in the act. Never hit, kick, slap or spank your dog. This type of inappropriate punishment always creates more problems and usually makes existing problems worse. Not only will you have a barking, chewing dog, but one that is leery, hand-shy, fearful or aggressive.


Jumping Up
The reason most dogs and puppies jump up on people is because they are happy and excited to see them! Jumping, leaping and bouncing are ways your dog shows affection and receives attention. The behavior is usually learned while they are puppies. When a puppy is very young, we usually sit on the floor, let them wiggle into our laps and allow them to lick and nuzzle up close to our face. When they come bounding over to greet us, jumping and stretching up to our knees, again we bend down, pick them up and exchange hugs and kisses. All this time we are training and rewarding the puppy for jumping up. Eventually we decide we don't like this behavior anymore. What used to be cute is now obnoxious and even dangerous if the dog is jumping up on children or the elderly.
The Jumping Problem Continues
Our inconsistency perpetuates the problem. Some of the time we tolerate the jumping and ignore it. Other times we reward the behavior by exchanging enthusiastic greetings. But when we're dressed up and the dog's paws are muddy, it's a different story. Reprimanding the dog for jumping up usually does not work. Either the dog misunderstands the reprimand as praise or he gets even more excited and the jumping gets worse. If the reprimand is severe enough, the dog may stop jumping at that moment but it doesn't solve the problem altogether; and it certainly is not a very nice thing to do. It's very similar to a person approaching you with a big smile, arm extended to exchange a hand-shake and you bopping the person in the nose. Even if your dog learns that jumping up on you is not a good idea, he will usually get away with jumping up on everyone else.
The End of the Jumping Problem
A better solution is providing your dog with an alternative method of greeting you and others. Teach your dog to sit-stay. He cannot sit-stay and jump up at the same time. When he is sitting you can then kneel down and give him a warm hug and kiss. Practice is essential. If your dog is excitedly jumping up when you return home from work and this only happens once a day, then he is only getting one practice session a day. If he is jumping up on your company and you only have visitors once a week, then he is only getting one practice session a week. In order to perfect the proper greeting routine, your dog needs much more practice than that. You can speed up the training process by leaving through the back door and returning through the front door over and over again. When your friends come over, have them do the same. Each time, ask your dog to sit-stay before opening the door. At first his excitement will make it difficult for him to concentrate but after you've repeated this process 10 times, he will calm down and be able to concentrate. Before asking your dog to sit-stay in this distracting and exciting situation, be sure he has a reliable sit-stay in normal, non-stressful situations.

How to Handle Dog Barking

Barking is a perfectly natural canine behavior. Birds sing; frogs croak; and a dog barks, whines and howls. If you have a dog, you better expect some barking, whining or howling. It is unrealistic and unfair to think you can train your dog to stop barking altogether. However, you, your neighbors and your dog will all be much happier if the barking is under control.

Dogs who are socially isolated or confined for long periods without supervised exercise need some outlet for their pent-up energy. A dog who is left alone all day is likely to take up barking as a hobby because no one is there to control him. In no time at all, barking becomes an enjoyable habit. And for many dogs, once they start barking, they tend to continue barking for the sheer fun of it.

Your dog may be barking excessively because you unintentionally trained her to do so. Poochie speaks and you obey. "Woof" and you open the door to let puppy out. "Woof" and you open it again to let her in. "Woof" and she gets a treat, "woof" for a tummy-rub . . . you get the picture. Your dog has learned to get attention through barking. It is easy to fall into this trap because the very nature of barking gets your attention. For the same reason, it is easy to forget to praise and reward your dog when she is not barking.


Barking and Walkies!
The first step in obtaining peace and quiet is to realize that lots of barking is caused by the dog being lonely, bored, frustrated or frightened. These are all situations that you can help to alleviate. A well-exercised, happy dog is more likely to sleep all day while you are not home. Spend time playing with, training and exercising your dog.

Obedience training is great mental exercise. Thinking is a tiring activity for dogs, as it is for humans. Most dogs really enjoy a rapid paced, exciting "game" of Come here, sit, heel, sit, heel, down, stay . . . come here for hugs, a massage, a celebration of praise and treats. Don't allow training to be a boring, tedious routine.

If your dog lives in the back yard most of the time, she probably needs "social exercise." She needs walks around the neighborhood, so she can investigate all the sounds and smells that tantalize her while she is in the yard. Bring her into the house when you are home. She needs to feel that she is part of your family. Having a large yard is not equal to having a well exercised dog. You may see your dog dashing madly around your yard, but he is not exercising. He is doing the doggy *****alent of pacing, fidgeting, or other human forms of nervous activity. Provide your dog with fun things with which to occupy himself, such as a digging pit or special chew toys.

Dogs are social animals. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the same dog park daily or weekly and let her make doggy friends. Dogs romping around and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from the good, hardy play session.


Nuisance Barking
Until you have re-trained your dog about her barking habits, she should be confined to a place where she will cause the least disturbance. Closing the drapes will help muffle the noise for the neighbors. In addition, confining the dog to the back of the house (away from the street) will keep disturbances to a minimum. Leave a radio playing to mask noises from the street. You may also want to have disconnect switches on the telephone and doorbell if these set off a barking spree.


"Stop Barking"
It's no wonder people have barking problems with their dogs. Most dogs have no clue as to whether barking is something good or something bad. Sometimes when the dog barks, he is ignored (owner in a jolly mood). Other times, the dog is encouraged (owner sees suspicious stranger outside the house). And yet other times, the dog is yelled at (owner has a headache). Humans are consistently inconsistent.

In order to help your dog know your rules, teach him what they are. Here is a good rule to start with: Barking is OK until the dog is told to "Stop Barking." Think of "Stop Barking" as an obedience command rather that simply an unpredictable reprimand.

Each time your dog barks, after two or three woofs, praise her for sounding the alarm. Then tell her, "Stop Barking." Simultaneously, waggle an especially tasty food treat in front of her nose. Most dogs instantly stop barking because they can't sniff and lick the treat while barking. During this quiet time praise her continuously - - "Good girl, stop barking, what a good quiet dog you are, good dog . . ." After 3 seconds of no barking, let her have the treat. The next time she barks, require her to stop barking for 5 seconds before she gets the treat. Each time she is told to stop barking and succeeds, she will be rewarded.

If she barks even one little wooflet after you've given the command, scold her immediately. Timing is everything. As training proceeds, the required period of silence is increased gradually; at first "Stop Barking" means: No barking for the next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds, then 10 seconds and so on.

Within a single training session, you can teach your dog to stop barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes. This is major progress, because whatever set off her barking in the first place is history, and she is likely to be quiet until the next disturbance.


The Consequences of Barking
When your dog stays quiet for the required period of time after you've asked her to please, "Stop Barking," she is rewarded. When she makes a mistake, your unsuspecting poochie's very next wooflet should be met with a cataclysmic, earthshaking 120 decibel "STOP BARKING!!!" Most dogs are so totally shocked and amazed by this horrendous outburst that they will stare at you in disbelief (and silence). If this outburst makes your dog more excited, then you might try an ice-cold I-mean-business tone of voice. Sometimes a splash of water in the face will do the trick. You must find something that will instantly make your dog stop barking. As soon as your dog stops barking, even for just a tenth of a second, you must immediately and instantly reward her. After enough repetitions your dog will learn the meaning of the command, "Stop Barking," and you will no longer need your training props (water, treats, etc.)


Substituting the Barking Habit
If your dog's excessive barking has already become a habit, don't expect the barking to get under control overnight. It takes weeks of repetition to replace an old habit with a new one. If you keep up with these procedures, you will see a new pattern of barking develop. Instead of barking relentlessly at the insignificant, your dog will be barking appropriately and for a reasonable length of time. It is important that you maintain this new good habit through practice and praise or your dog may revive his old annoying barking habits again.




Socialization Tips and Puppy Training Pointers
for New Puppy Owners
Puppy Socialization Do's and Don'ts
Socialization and puppy training are of utmost importance as puppyhood is the most important and critical time in your dog's development. What you do and do not do right now will affect your dog's behavior forever.
Puppy Socialization
A properly socialized dog is well adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything it would normally meet in day to day living. An un-socialized dog is untrustworthy and an unwanted liability. They often become fear-biters. Often they like to fight with other dogs. They are difficult to train and are generally unpleasant to be around. Unsocialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple routine visit to the vet is a nightmare not only for the dog itself, but for everyone involved. Don't let this happen to you and your dog. Start socializing your new puppy NOW! The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine agrees that the socialization period lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age. However, at 12 weeks, the puppy must continue socialization to refine its social skills. Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3 months old. Any later than that and it becomes an excruciatingly difficult and time-consuming process that very few owners have the time, energy, money or patience to cope with.
Socialization Do's
Make sure that each of the following events are pleasant and non-threatening. If your puppy's first experience with something is painful and frightening, you will be defeating your purpose. In fact, you will be creating a phobia that will often last a lifetime. It's better to go too slow and assure your puppy is not frightened or injured than to rush and force your pup to meet new things and people.
-Invite friends over to meet your pup. Include men, women, youngsters, oldsters, different ethnic backgrounds, etc.

-Invite friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs, puppies and even cats to your home to meet and play with your new puppy. Take your puppy to the homes of these pets, preferably with dog-friendly cats.

-Carry your pup to shopping centers, parks, school playgrounds, etc; places where there are crowds of people and plenty of activity.

-Take your puppy for short, frequent rides in the car. Stop the car and let your puppy watch the world go by through the ********

-Introduce your puppy to umbrellas, bags, boxes, the vacuum cleaner, etc. Encourage your puppy to explore and investigate his environment.

-Get your puppy accustomed to seeing different and unfamiliar objects by creating your own. Set a chair upside down. Lay the trash can (empty) on its side, set up the ironing board right-side up one day and upside down the next day.

-Introduce your puppy to new and various sounds. Loud, obnoxious sounds should be introduced from a distance and gradually brought closer.

-Accustom your puppy to being brushed, bathed, inspected, having its nails clipped, teeth and ears cleaned and all the routines of grooming and physical examination.

-Introduce your puppy to stairs, his own collar and leash. Introduce anything and everything you want your puppy to be comfortable with and around.

Socialization Don'ts
-Do not put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have access. This is where your puppy can pick up diseases. Wait until your puppy's shots are completed. Do not let your pup socialize with dogs that appear sick or dogs that you don't know, that may not be vaccinated.
-Do not reward fearful behavior. In a well meaning attempt to sooth, encourage or calm the puppy when it appears frightened, we often unintentionally reward the behavior. It's normal for the puppy to show some signs of apprehension when confronting anything new and different.

-Do not allow the experience to be harmful, painful or excessively frightening. This can cause lifetime phobias in your dog.

-Do not force or rush your puppy. Let your puppy take things at his own pace. Your job is to provide the opportunity.

-Do not do too much at one time. Young puppies need a lot of sleep and tire quickly. It is much more productive to have frequent and very brief exposures than occasional prolonged exposures.

-DO NOT WAIT!! Every day that goes by is an opportunity of a lifetime that is lost forever. You can never get these days back. If socialization does not happen now, it never will

وشكرأ علي كل من اهتم بلموضوع وبكلاب البت بوول

[uae_pitbull]

وايـضأ اليوم عندي لكم خاص لمنتدى 2زوو

اسامي كلاب البت بوول الي يبغي اسم وعنده كلب ومحتار

الحل هـنا بـسم الله ونبـدأ


• Akilli (Intelligent, wise, clever)
• Baby Love
• Bajas (clown, buffoon)
• Bejita (strong, inteligent)
• Blaster (fast)
• Bolo (strenth)
• Brita (strength)
• Choukan (chief)
• Ciallmhar (Sensible)
• Clifford (very noble and well trought of)
• Cobber (Good friend, affectionate)
• Cuca (roguish, urchin, mischievous,but good)
• Daiki (great joy)
• Dakarai (Happy)
• Dobri (Good/nice)
• Dobry ( great)
• Dostca (friendly)
• Gaylen (Itelligent)
• Genki (means energy, or being energetic)
• Hardee (Hardy)
• Hexe (witch)
• Himitsu (secret)
• Ima (Short for im a pain)
• Kafali (intelligent)
• Kumpel (friend, buddy)
• Legend (history-outstanding family)
• Loco (Meaning crazy)
• Mate (Best friend)
• Muttlee (Canadian for "Party Dog")
• Nera
• Nikkou (sunshine)
• Petey (lovible, passionate, the best!)
• Piper (The "Pied Piper")
• Pocomotion (never slows down)
• Potchie Macher (Mischief Maker)
• Praxin (verry verry agresive dogs)
• Precious (Sweet & Wonderful)
• Brownie (Innocent and Playful)
• Budrow (big white freindly)
• Alanna (cute, nice, pretty, loving)
• Crisco (Tub of lard (but cute!))
• Miel (honey)
• Sadie (loyal,strong)
• Sula (Little Bear By The Water)
• Zero (A small gentel dog)
• Rolex (Watch Dog)
• Shelby (cheerfull to the soul)
• Speedy (really fast)
• Spiffy (A quick spirited little dog)
Jo-Fi (a name given by Sigmund Freud to his chow)
• Birdie (one under par in golf)
• Bogey (Bogey, in golf is 1 over par.)
• Champ (winner; Best)
• Chyna (After the female wrestler.)

• Anubis (Egyptian god of Embalming)
• Aphrodite (beautiful)
• Apollo (dog of all dogs)
• Ares (God of the war)
• Argo
• Ashke (Name for the god of love)
• Aurora (Northern Lights of Alaska)
• Baldur (norse god of light and joy)
• Bast
• Beezuzu (The devil)
• Belial (prince of demons)
• Isis (Goddess of magic)
• Izzie ( beutiful baby)
• Jana (godin of rats)
• Taliesin (father of Merlin)
• Telemachus (son of Odysseus)
• Tenjin (Japanese god of Learning)
• Tenko (Strong character)
• Valkyrie (gaurdian angels of valhala - the norse underworld.)
• Yethi (Long tall hairy dog)
• Zeke Named after the son of the Greek God Apollo
• Benelli (duck gun)
• Dan (Abbreviation for danger.)
• Jager (hunter)
• Raven (Hunter; Black Hair)
• Trigger (attacks anything that trys to hurt him or owner)
• Callista (most beautiful)
• Chubs (A chubby dog)
• Okkali (large, big)
• Onix (a black stone)
• Rocko (Musculur, bulky)
• Ruga ( wrinkle)
• Sadey (Sad Eyes)
• Sketch (scared nervous)
• Twix (it would be good for a beagle)
• Wrinkles (Wrinkly. Good for shar-peis)
• Zilli (my shadow)
• Sizzla (dangerous and cunning)
• Tonrar (Inuit Eskimo For Devil)
• Sizzla (dangerous and cunning)
• Tonrar (Inuit Eskimo For Devil)
• Flame (fire (hott))
• Frost (Killer)
• Kango ( very protective and aggressive)
• Adrama (the nearest galaxy)
• Bailly (A large crater on Earth's moon)
• Rigel (The brightest, youngest star in Orion.)
• Bogie (in golf-- bogey is one over par)
• Bravo (A hero. Good dog.)






• Abra
• Abrak
• Abram
• Absy
• Acadia
• Acca
• Ace
• Acura
• Ada
• Adal
• Adar
• Adel
• Adela
• Adele
• Adelicia
• Adelpha
• Adia
• Adian
• Adicus
• Adie
• Adina
• Adiunkt
• Adler
• Adolfo
• Adon
• Adonis
• Adonis & Venus
• Adorjan
• Adoxa
• Adra
• Adria
• Adrian
• Adriana
• Aja
• Ajana
• Ajrin
• Aka
• Akacja
• Akasha
• Alex
• Alexa
• Alexe
• Alexi
• Alexia
• Alexis
• Alf
• Alfi
• Alfons
• Alfred
• Alfur
• Alga
• Alhaja
• Alice
• Alicia
• Alie


• Bagsi
• Bandi
• Bandit
• Banditen
• Bandito
• Bandmaster
• Bando
• Banduir
• Bane
• Bangle
• Bango
• Bani
• Bania
• Banja
• Banjer
• Banjo
• Bredo
• Bree
• Chatita
• Citra
• Crisco
• Cuttie pie
• Cyndra
• Deoji
• Fontaine
• Freckles
• Itsy Bitsy
• Jemma
• Kaisha
• Katie
• Ketzel
• Keva
• Bolo
• Bonz
• Brio
• Brita
• Chaco
• Chatter
• Cuca
• Daiki
• Faisca
• Foxy
• Ima
• Psycho
• Punky
• Rowan
• Sassy
• Satria
• Sheila
• Snuffy
• Swing
• Tiff
• Tipper
• Amice
• Babsi
• Babsie

• P.I.T.A.
• Paavo
• Pablo
• Pabsi
• Amico
• Amidala
• Amie
• Amiga
• Amigo
• Amika
• Amilcare
• Baccus
• Bachelor
• Baci
• Back
• Bafi
• Bafin
• Baflo
• Bagel
• Abe
• Abee
• Abel
• Abia
• Aminda
• Amir
• Amira
• Amis
• Amlyn
• Bandito
• Bagge
• Abilyne
• Abon
• Bacara
• Baccus
• Bach
• Bachelor
• Baci
• Back
• Bafi
• Bafin
• Nefertari
• Niko
• Nixon
• Panzer
• Pavlov
• Ramses
• Todie
• Tug
• Urwis
• Vida
• Wigor
• Brutal
• Buller
• Bully
• Butch
• Cain & Abel

• Bandmaster
• Bando
• Banduir
• Bane
• Bangle
• Bango
• Bani
• Bania
• Banja
• Banjer
• Banjo
• Bredo
• Bree
• Alfons
• Alfred
• Alfur
• Alga
• Alhaja
• Alice
• Alicia
• Alie
• Aliento
• Amen ra
• Amerada
• Amethyst
• Alcapone
• Anastasia
• Armina
• Asa
• Attilla
• Augustus
• Bell
• Bismarck
• Bona
• Bosworth
• Brutus
• Caesar
• Columbus
• Cortez
• Curie
• Cyrus
• Czar
• Dagobert
• Darwin
• Decoyman
• Dixie
• Dole
• Douglas
• Tyr
• Ulysses
• Urania
• Ursus
• Vesta
• Vili
• Xena
• Yamuna
• Kostek
• Mercy
• Quanja
• Quanni
• Quant
• Tahiti
• Tai Chi
• Tai-bo
• Taica
• Taiga
• Taïga
• Taiko
• Pacific
• Dakota
• Dogwood
• Pacifier
• Pacifist
• Pacio
• Pacha
• Pachomius
• Pacco
• Pace
• Natas
• Pheonix
• Poison
• Raivo
• Damien
• Flame
• Frisky
• Goro
• Hexa
• Ice
• Kahn
• Kaina
• Taffy
• Taggie
• Tago
• Tags
• Taharka
• Taima
• Taja
• Zeus
• Zigmoot
• Zeke
• Killer
• Kita
• Koojo
• Chaos
• Chato
• Chiko
• Babsy
• Bac
• Baca
• Amen ra
• Amerada
• Ametyst


وشكرا لكم

[uae_pitbull]

هـنا صور جميله لبعض البت بوول الامريكي والروسي

[uae_pitbull]

اليوم عندا تعبير او تشرح لجسم كلب البت بوول مع العلاض تقرير كامل خاص لمنتدى 2زوو

GENEL GORUNUM

American Staffordshire Terrierler orta büyüklük de, saglam yapili, kisa ve duzgun tuylu, kasli , atletik ve guclu bir cinsdir. Bu cinsin Vucudunun uzunlugu, boy yuksekliginden daha uzundur. Bu durum disilerde biraz daha uzun olabilir. On bacak uzunlugu (dirsekden yere kadar) yaklasik olarak vucudun yukseklinin yarisi kadar olmalidir. Orta buyuklukde, genis, duz bir kafa tasina ve genis kisa bir burna sahip olmalidir. Kulaklar kucuk ve orta uzunlukda dogal veya kesilmis olabilir.Kuyruk kisa ve alcak pozisyonda, dipden kalinca ve incelerek gelir. American Staffordshire Terrier butun reklerde ve desenlerde olabilir. Bu tur gucu ve atletizmi zerafet ve ceviklikle birlestimis ve asla hantal veya iri kemikli olmamasi gereken bir irkdir

KARAKTER

American Staffordshire Terrierin temel karakteristik ozellikleri; Guc, guven ve hayatin tadina, zevkine duskun bir irkdir. Bu tur mutlu etmek icin arzulu, hevesli, kabina sigmayan bir cinsdir. American Staffordshire Terrierler muhtesem bir aile dostu ve cocuklara karsi olan sevgileriyle dip not edilmislerdir. AMSTAFF'lar sahipleri tarafindan itaat egitimi ve dikkatli bir sosyallestirmeye ihtiyaci duyan bir cinsdir. Bu cinsin cevikligi bu kopekleri en yetenekli tirmanan kopek cinsi durumuna sokmustur. Bu yuzden bahce citlerinin cok dikkatli duzenlenmesi gerekimektedir. American Staffordshire Terrierler tanimadiklari insanlara bile gosterebilecekleri iyi niyetli tavirlardan dolayi alan koruma kopegi olarak cok iyi bir secim degillerdir. Insanlara karsi saldirgan tavirlar bu turun karakteristik ozelligi kesinlikle degildir. Ve kesinlikle istenmiyecek bir durumdur.



KAFA

American Staffordshire Terrierlerin kafasi bu turun anahtar ogesidir ve benzersizdir. Vucuduna gore orantisiz olmamakla birlikde,Genis, buyuk ve inanilmaz gucun simgesidir. Onden gorunusu genis, kaba bir takoz gibidir. Yandan bakildiginda ise kafatasi ve burun birbirine parallel ve duzgun bir sekilde baglanmis ve kismen derin bir bitisi vardir. Gozlerin uzerindeki kemer duzgun tanimlanmis fakat telafuzu yokdur. Kafa duzgun yontulmus, guc ile harmanlanmis,zerafetli ve kisilik doludur..

KAFATASI

Kafatasi buyuk, duz veya hafif yuvarlak, derin ve goz aralari genisdir. Yukardan gorunumunde kafatasi taperslari hafifce sona dogrudur.Occiputun sonundan derinlige dogru azalan derin orta bir cizgi bulunur. Yanak kaslari cikik ve kirisik olabilir.



BURUN

Burun genis, burun ucunun sonundan ince bir taperla derinlesir ve gozlerin altina dogru hafice bir inis vardir. Burunun uzunlugu yaklasik olarak 2/3 oraninda kafa tasinin uzunluguna gore daha kisadir. Burnun ust cizgisi duzdur. Alt cene genis ve derin ve muhtesem gelismis,.dudaklari temiz ve sarkik deildir

DISLER

AMSTAFF'lar beyaz disli bir makas isirgina sahipdirler.
Isiris Faulleri:
Alt cene veya ust cenenin onde olmasi durumu, egri veya carpik agiz, eksik dis( veteriner tarfindan cekilmis veya kaybedilmis disler haric

BURUN UCU

Burun ucu genis ve buyuk, burun delikleri acik ve her renk olabilir

GOZLER

Orta buyuklukde, kavisli, badem seklinde, birbirinden duzgunce ayrilmis ve kafa tasinin alt tarafinda olmalidir. Ciddi bir faul sayilan mavi renk haric her renk kabul edilebilir.
Ciddi fauller: Patlak gozler, cift renkli gozler ve mavi goz.



KULAKLAR

Kulaklar yuksek konumlu, dogal(kesilmemis) veya kesilmis olabililir. Eeger dogal ise semi prick veya rose tercih edilmelidir. Genis kulaklar tercih edilmemelidir.


BOYUN

Boyun orta buyuklukde ve kasli bir yapiya sahipdir. Boynun doruguna dogru hafif bir bombe vardir.Boyun baglanti yeri kafa tasindan genis omuzlarina kadar yavas yavas genisliyerek gelir. Boyundaki deri siki, sert ve sarkik olmalidir.
Fauller; Devlap, cok kisa veya cok genis boyun (devlap: bkz.fauller)


VUCUDUN ON, DORTDE BIRI

Omuz kurekleri uzun, genis, kasli ve dusuk deildir.Ust kol kabaca omuz kureklerinin genisligine esit ve belli bir dogru aciyla birlesmisdir.
On bacak kasli ve gucludur. Dirsekler vucuda yakin konumlanmisdir. Onden gorunumunde on bacaklar birbirine orta mesafe uzaklikda ve yere dik konumda olmalidirlar. Pasternleri kisa, guclu,duz ve esnek olmalidir.Onden bakisda ise dik olmalidirlar.
Fauller; Dikey veya dolu omuzlar;dirseklerin disari veya iceri pozisyonu, kavisli on bacak, fazla bilek oynakligi, ayak parmaklarinin ice veya disa durumu.

VUCUT

Gögüs derin, iyi yapili, kalbin ve akcigerin genisligine orantili olacak sekilde genistir.Gögüs derinligi ve genisligi de birbirleriyle orantilidir.Gögsün ön bölümü omuzlara kadar uzanmamaktadir.Kaburgalar, arka taraftan uzanarak , omurgalarla birlestikten sonra dirseklere kadar genis bir yapi olusturmaktadir. Sirt kismi saglam ve siki bir yapiya sahiptir. Kafa kismi , omuzlarin en yüksek noktasindan itibaren kasli, genis ve düzgün bir sekilde asagiya dogru meyil kazanir.Bel, kisa, düzgün ve kasli olup, kalçanin en yüksek noktasina kadar kemer seklini andirir, kaburgalardan daha dardir ve çok saglam bir yapiya sahiptir.( dayaniklilik atletik yapili bir köpek için çok önemli bir husustur.Bu dayaniklilik derecesi ,köpegin kondüsyon seviyesini belirlemektedir.Asagidaki sekilden de bunu daha iyi anlayabilirsiniz.) Kalça kismi asagiya dogru, düzgün bir sekilde egim göstermektedir.


AYAKLAR

Ayaklar kavisli, kopege gore orantili, duzgun kemerli ve sikidir. Patiler saglam, sert ve dayaniklidir. Fazla,gereksiz penceler aldirilmalidir
Fauller; Acik ve yayik ayaklar.

KUYRUK

Kuyruk, vucut ust cizgisinin dogal uzantisidir . Kopek sakin bir pozisyonda iken kuyruk assagida ve yaklasik olarak arka ayak dirseklerine kadar uzar. Kopek hareket halinde iken kuyruk sirt yuksekliginde gelir. Kopek heyecanlandiginda kuyruk kalkabilir veya up right pozisyonu (meydan okuma) alabilir fakat asla arkaya dogru (gay kuyruk) kivrilmamalidir.

Fauller; Uzun kuyruk(Kuyruk ucu arka dirsegi gecmemeli)
Ciddi fauller: Iplenmis kuyruk,Gay kuyruk(meydan okuyan bir kopegin kuyrugunun aldigi pozisyonla asla karistirilmamalidir.
Diskalifiye; Bobin kuyruk.


TUYLER

Postu duzgun ve parlakdir, sik ve dokunuldugunda biraz sertdir.
Diskalifiye: uzun tuy


RENK

Merle haric (alaca bulaca), her renk, desen ve renk kombinasyonu kabul edililebilir.
Diskalifiye: Merle(Alaca bulaca)


UZUNLUK VE AGIRLIK

Amstafflar guclu ve cevik olmalidirlar, bu yuzden gercek agirlik ve yukseklikleri, agirliginin yuksekligine olan dogru orantisindan daha az onemlidir. Iyi kondisyonlu eriskin bir erkekde arzulanan agirlik 18 ile 32 kg arasinda olmalidir. Iyi kondisyonlu bir disinin agirligi ise 17 ile 27 kg arasinda olmalidir. Bu agirlik degerlerinin uzerinde olan kopekler orantisiz irilikde olmadiklari surece puan kaybetmezler.


YURUYUS

Amerikan Staffordshire Teriyeri her an yeni bir sey kesfedebilmek amaci ile rahat ve ilgili bir tutumla etrafini dolasir. Kosarken bile, önünde ve arkasinda neler oldugunu sahip oldugu müthis koordinasyonu sayesinde çabukça kavrayabilir. Hareket ederken, esnekligi sayesinde arka plani sezinleyebilir. Hareketlerinden gözlemlendigi kadariyla,bacaklari sabittir ve içeriye yada disariya dogru dönmeler gözlemlenemez. Ayaklarinda çarpiklik yada birbirine dolasma görülmez. Hizlari arttikça, ayaklari denge merkez hattina dogru yönelir..Giderken yuruyusu guc harcamadan ama guclu, akici, duzgun, kontrolludur.
Fauller: Bacaklarin ayni seviyede hareket etmemesi, Onde veya arkada bacak carpilmalari; arka bacaklarin birbirine cok yakinolmasi veya carpmasi; bacaklarin disari dogru atilmasi ,carpik yuruyus, aksamak veya yana dogru yuruyus,

[uae_pitbull]

ايـضأ تكملت التشرح اوالتقرير

KAFA YAPISI


Amstaff'a has kafa yapisi baska bir türde görülmez ve türün en önemli özelliklerinden birini olusturmaktadir. Kafasi genis ve yassidir, ki bu durum onun ne derece güçlü oldugu izlenimine varmamiza neden olur. Fakat kafa yapilarinin bu özelligi vücutlarina göre orantisiz da degildir. Önden bakildiginda, yassi bir kama gibidir. Yandan bakildiginda ise, kafatasi- burun ve agiz olusumu birbirlerine paralellik gösterip, derin ve belirgin noktalarla birlesirler. Gözlerinin üzerindeki yuvarlak halkalar çok belirgin olmamakla birlikte, mükemmel bir sekilde tanimlanabilir. Türün kafa yapisi, asil görünümlü, siki ve güçlü oldugu her halinden belli olan bir yapiya sahiptir.


ÖN GÖVDE


Kürek kemikleri uzun, genis ve kasli bir yapiya sahiptir.Ön bacaklarin üst kismi, kürek kemiklerinin uzunluklariyla esit sayilabilecek sekilde, düzgün bir açiyla birlesmektedir. Ön bacaklar güçlü ve de kaslidir, dirsekler vücuda yakin bir biçimde kuruludur. Pasternler (ayagin hemen üst kismi) kisa, düzgün, güçlü ve esnek bir yapiya sahiptir. Profilden bakildiginda pasternler neredeyse dimdiktir.
Faullerüzgün olmayan yada hantal görünümlü omuzlar; çarpik yada birbirine dolasan bacaklar; pasternlerde bulunan tüyler; ön bacaklardaki egiklikler ; beldeki sorunlar; bacaklardaki içe yada disa dogru olan çikintilar.

BOYUN


Boyun orantili ölçülerde uzundur ve kasli bir yapiya sahiptir.Ense kisminda hafif bir çikinti vardir.Kafa tasiyla birlestigi yerden kürek kemiklerine baglandigi yere kadar giderek kalinlasan bir yapiya sahiptir.Boynu kaplayan deri tabakasi son derece siki ve kusursuzdur.
UKC üyelerinden, ayni zamanda Amstaff yetistiricilerinden biri , gösteri alanlarinda kisa ve kalin boyunlu Amstaff'in diger köpeklere üstünlük sagladigini ve bu özelliginin onu devamli olarak zirvede tuttugunu belirtmistir. Ne var ki kisa bir boyun sanki bir kusurmus gibi nitelendirilir. Kisa ve tüylü bir boyun sahibi olmak bir KABAHATTIR !!!! Aslinda köpeklerin boynu, kafataslarindan daha uzundur ve omuzlardan kafatasina dogru giderek incelen bir sekle sahiptir.
Fauller : Çok kisa ve kalin boyunlar;çok ince ya da zayif boyunlar; tüy orani fazla ve katli boyunlar



Bu figürde, çikintili bir boyun görmekteyiz. Alt çenenin zemine paralel oldugunu ve bu çikintinin yapay sekilde alt çenenin asagiya dogru uyguladigi açi sonucu olusmadigini da unutmayiniz.Kafatasinin kabaca sekli yan taraftaki figürden görülebilmektedir.

Kürek kemikleri uzun, genis, kasli ve saglam bir yapiya sahiptir. Humerus ( omuz ve dirsek arasindaki kemik ) yaklasik olarak kürek kemigiyle esit uzunluktadir ve kürek kemigine dogru açiyla baglanmaktadir.
UKC üyesi ve Amstaff yetistiricisi, kisa bir humerus yapisina sahip olan köpeklerin artik normal karsilandigini da belirtmektedir. Bu durum köpeklere hareket halindeyken dinamik ve kalçasindaki yükseklikle asil bir görünüm kazandirmaktadir.



Bu figürler ön gövdeyle ilgili birçok konuya açiklik getirmektedir. Grafik çizimleri omuzlardaki açi oraninin, kürek kemiklerinin 45 derecelik açisinin ve kürek kemikleri ile humerus arasindaki 90 derecelik açinin nasil tahmin edildigini göstermektedir.APBT’nin layback’i ( arkaya dogru hafif çikinti) ortalama 40 derece olmalidir. Ikincisi ise, pasternleri de içererek türe iliskin bir çok noktaya deginmektedir.

Pasternler için – neredeyse dimdik, zayif/ ince, dik/ egri- gibi tanimlamalarin anlamlari, beyaz hatlarda görülmektedir. Pasternler olabildigince dik, hafif esnek ve güçlü olmalidir.

Ön ve arka pasternler çok önemlidir, benim sahip oldugum baska bir ev hayvaninin, Peeves’in, ayaklari yamuktur.
Ön bacaklar güçlü ve kasli, dirsekler vücuda yakindir. Önden bakildiginda ön bacaklar, orantili bir biçimde ayriktir ve zemine dik açi uygulamaktadir. (Asagidaki figürde de görülmektedir.) Pasternler kisa, güçlü, düz ve esnektir. Profilden bakildiginda pasternler neredeyse dimdiktir. (Pastern profili üzerindeki fotografa bakiniz. )

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KUCUK FAULLER

Dik Kulaklar

Dusuk Kulaklar

Genis Kulaklar

Uzun Kuyruk

Ice donuk Bacaklar

Ayakta dusukluk A. Dik Basis B. dusuk basis. Standarta en yakini (A)stern Ice veya Disa donuk Ayaklar Gay Tail :Arkaya dogru kalkik kuyruk Onde Alt Cene Onde Ust Cene